Bon giorno my friends and family. Imagine if you can, heaven and the perfect image of Italy. I am there.

The sun shone, the tears flowed as we departed from our temporary and delightful home at the agritourismo. We breakfasted, hugged, exchanged emails and were carefully driven to pick up the rental car.

The last twenty four hours prior were an emotional roller coaster for me and I admit I am still feeling on the edge of tears at any moment. Happy tears mostly and gratitude. The sale of my condo went firm … And I received a heartfelt email from my husband who is home and dealing with all the details on his own. Loss of that dream home we had shared for ten years, and also missing him and our home in Victoria. Perhaps moments of home sickness? The gluten ingestion and subsequent strong violent physical reaction left me weak and muscle sore. Saying good bye to new friends is hard, too after spending a week getting to know them.

Two losses stand out for me most …. Our tour leader is a young strong and very entertaining, sincere and talented man. He has been so careful with our food issues, he is a sommelier and recommended and taught us about local wines, he is from southern Italy and he loves his momma. I wept saying good bye to him although I believe we will arrange tours again together. He is such a good man and we ate most meals together sitting side by side as he looked after translations and watching what they brought to the table …. and often we would chat into the evening long after the others had retired … about love, life and how to really enjoy the most of both.

Ciao ciao Francesco, your positive energies are felt across the land and I am forever changed for the better for knowing you. I trust that your journey will take you back home to your heart. Feel it beat. Sit silently for a while and it will guide you where you need to be. With love, Pamellllla.

Secondly saying good bye to this magical place, the lemon trees hanging with beautiful fruit, the five people in the family who cooked, cleaned, served and cared for us for a week. The mamma, the papa, the son, the daughter and the stunningly beautiful Italian woman who is now my vision of Italian women, Natasha. She was gracious and passionate, fun and the way she carried herself, her clothes, her hair, her voice, her jewellery …. Ahhhhhh, a mentor. WomenHoldingHandsAroundTheWorld.

It was so hard to express in language how wonderfully they did their job, and live their lives so others can enjoy the vacation of their dreams. These people make dreams come true. How do we really and truly show that appreciation? I hope this message gets back to them somehow. My experience in their home far surpassed my expectations. I weep when I feel the expression of openness and hospitality … The sharing of their intimate space and daily life with strangers. Wow! Grazie, Grazie, Grazie.

And so my next entry will bring you up to speed on the day, the drive and the destination ….. For now……

Ciao tutti!

Ti Amo

Pamellllla

Last day at Agritourismo

Today we had the treat and favourable weather prediction for sunshine …and the island of Capri. The emphasis of this word is on the Cap and small ri. That is how it is in southern Italy.

We prepared for a nice day, although it was a cool evening in the room. What a grand room and accommodation! Wind blowing from the sea, and waking up with the new light of day as the sun shines out on the horizon.

Unfortunately breakfast had invited a gluten product on our table, and so, more of that later. We prepared and were picked up in the minivan for our departure to the Sorrento pier. I saw the Azamara ship there yesterday and then today the small Primcess ship was tendering people in. It looked like rough seas, so half a gravel, some ginger, a peppermint gum and fresh lemon just in case. I share with another fellow who anticipates some sickness …and Marianna also, we split one in half.

The port is lovely, fishing boats and nets, old buildings and structures. Great view and some sea birds soaring on the breeze. The waves seem to be a bit choppy. We are greeted by a lovely thirty six foot speed boat … To take our crew to Capri as planned. Ho ….. A bit interesting just getting in the boat!, rocky seas, I select to sit up front for air and view. Off we go. All is well. Janie and I chat about what a delight this is. Extra special really. Above and beyond expectations.

We arrive in Capri after breathtaking views and a safe landing. Within minutes I feel ill and pull away from the group. I decide not to participate …. I simply can’t go any further. Three hours of sickness from the earlier gluten poisoning …. Thank goodness there was a public pay water closet. Then a rest by the sea shore, in the shade sipping on an appreciated bottle of frizzy water .. Waiting for the nausea and so on to pass. Waves of fogginess and shakiness took over and … Well, enough of that! I survived and maybe moved ten to twenty feet in the three hours. Thanks to my friend Deb for postponing her celiac reaction until I could feel better and look after her….. That is what friends are for ….. Smile.

Others arrived from their adventure up top and to AniCapri …. Then back to the boat for a three hour tour all around the island. The seas calmed. The spectacular view was not to be missed. If ever you get a chance for a private tour around the island, I highly recommend it. Some two hundred thousand people visit this small unique and high end island every week ….13,000 residents….. It is about tourism. And so incredibly beautiful.

Then back to Sorrento, and the agritourismo last evening meal. People are starting to pack up and one left before dinner. We all go our separate ways tomorrow.

The five of us gals will go to Sorrento in the morning for a ride in to pick up our car rental … And off on the adventure further south, out of tourist country, where almost no one speaks English, for our final week together at the time share in Maretea.

Stay tuned for more … Hugs and stories.

Ciao. Ti amo.

Pamelllllla
Xoxoxox

Limoncello 4 ingredients

One litre 98 percent alcohol,
7 zest of Lemons
650 gm Sugar
1 litre Water

Let zest soak in alcohol in a jar. Seal. For one week.
Let sugar melt in cold water
Pour yellow liquid into water, sugar mixture.

Original in Sorrento, igp sign, means follows proper processing.

Today we had a day to explore and learn about this agritourismo, starting with a sleep in and late breakfast. Followed by a tour and talk from the owner and the family, interpreted by Francesco. Beautiful pictures, hot sun … Ahhhhhh. The scent of the lemons growing and hanging all around.

We learned to make limoncello as above … Then we took turns making pizza. The gluten free gals went first … Lots of fun and extraordinary. I feel so special and I go first. Yummmmm

We head in to Sorrento for a quick shop in town, it starts to rain a shower as we wander down the alleys and small streets. Fun. We grab a city bus back to the farm, walk back up the hill.

Time for a shower, dress and today we have a wine tasting event led by our sommelier Francesco. Lovely. Out doors on the patio, watching the sun set on the sea, behind mount Vesuvius. Breathtaking. Snacks of olives, cheese, gluten free fresh made bread, some crackers and crisps. We can hear music from the hotel restaurant and bar below on the hill … In fact is still playing even now as I write this several hours later. Familiar tunes, Italian words. Beautiful.

Dinner always at eight … Tonight, risotto for the gluten free, bread, lettuce salad, cauliflower baked …. Some wine, limoncello for dessert. Then some plans made for tomorrow …. A full day to the island of Capri. Oh this will be grand.

The following day we head to Sorrento to pick up the rental car and off we go for our final week adventure in Maratea, southern coast of Italy some three or more hours south of here. Looking forward to quiet, fun with the gals. Maybe painting?

Ti amo. Ciao. Wish you were here.

Love Pamellllla
Xoxoxo

Change of plans due to weather prediction. We are enjoying very fresh lemon in hot water after breakfast. I can hear and feel the thunder and rain. Cool air greets us through open windows. A table for twelve, and we will take vehicles to drive the Amalfi coast and short hour walks in key locations. I have been waiting for this trip my lifetime …. So special. Grazie, Grazie.

————later ——

We are back now at the agritourismo having spent an incredible day … We drove up and back on the Amalfi coast in the brilliant sunshine. We stopped in Priano, Amalfi, Ravello and again had a view of Positano. We ate lunch in a spectacular restaurant overlooking the bay … I had the most exquisite small loaf of gluten free bread … Warm Italian baguette which I shared generously. I had a penne dinner with tomato sauce and chillies and I feel I had one of the best meals of my life … EVER! Omg.

It gets better. Driving home, singing along with Dean Martin “when the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, that’s amore ……” With full enthusiasm and passion, eight people including the driver …. I reach out my hands and encourage all 8 of us to hold hands and sway to the music as we sing at the full volume …. As we go through the towns, people stop and listen and watch … The sun just starting its descent into the sea … Magic.

It has been many years since the dream of seeing Positano and the Amalfi coast was born. Many indeed. I imagined a colourful coastline and spectacular views. As of yesterday this dream is being realized.

After breakfast, we prepared for the day. And with instructions from our leader, we ventured out on our own, three of us. Francesco and half of the others decided they would do the famed Walk of the Gods adventure hike. Sadly my toe is still damaged and my foot very sore, so alas, I am not going to try it. They depart and we have a meeting place for five pm fast foot ferry boat from Positano back to Sorrento and home to the agritourismo for five pm departure.

We three walk through the lemon tree groves, peppered with assorted fragrant flowers and beautiful trees of many kinds and descriptions. To say this place is beautiful is an understatement. It is a magical spot away from the world and yet conveniently located only a few moments walk from the hustle and bustle of every day life in the south of Italy ….. Tourists, shopping, cars and busses, school children, etc etc. Here on this property time stands still, the wind gently blows in the sea air, the sun shines, the view stops me in my steps and I gasp. A hard working close family share the daily chores and entertain, host lunches, have me as their guest … As well as make fresh cheeses, dinner, bake bread, home made pizza, limoncello. They grow olives and other varietals of fruits and veggies and prepare for human consumption and enjoyment. After all, this is Italy!

A local bus for a euro, comes and the driver while not English speaking assists to advise when we arrive in the centro of Sorrento. A busy metropolitan city and we are not in the tourist area. I make a few purchases of local watercolor book marks and a special gift for my mother. And we purchase our bus tickets for a trip to Positano in an hour or so. There is a long queue already …. And many high school age students pour into the bus, now solid with as many standing as sitting. Perhaps we have the last three seats! Oy vey! And off we go.

Mamma Mia …. Common expression I have come to love while here …. Switchbacks and close to cliff views. Incredible! I am a bit motion sick … No air on the bus …. So crowded and the momentum is so extreme … I do very much enjoy the view from my window when I can catch a sight … Over an hour ride and we arrive, dropped off at the very top for the long windy walk down narrow streets to the beach area of Positano. Every step of this walk is a picture, a photo op, and an opportunity to capture a moment that I will want to paint later. It is spectacular and I am so grateful for arriving in this Fantastico place.

Shopping is delayed as the shops are mostly closed in Italy, at least on this trip, between 2 pm and 4 pm-ish. However the closer we get to the beach, the more stores are available. The steps, the doors, the flowers, the view, the colourful old buildings and decorated tiles that adorn the entranceways. It is all beautiful. It is all spectacular blues, yellows, terra cotta tile red, peach, orange, gold, white, and more … Greenery everywhere. This is a lush land and so picturesque. Down down down we walk.

We meet our group and have a one hour ride in the waves across the bay to Sorrento to catch our ride home. Back at the farm we dress for dining, and we share stories about our day.

Dinner is again started with antipasto … Tomato, home made hot gluten free rolls, and grilled vegetables. Olive oil. A soup of fava beans and potato with tomatoes is rich, warm and very comforting. Grilled aubergine, eggplant, parmigiana …. One of the best flavours and dishes probably ever I have eaten. I tell them so. They advise it is one of the easiest and fastest dishes to make fresh and fast … Oh my. I want more. The small tasty servings are perfect. And the meal is complete. Some wine local to the area, sparkling white and then rich red. Dinner is complete with limoncello and one made from fennel … So exotic and incredible. We all taste. It is impressive and satisfying.

I feel lucky. I feel special and I feel very satisfied that this will go down as one of my favorite travel days ever. The hots sun, a gentle breeze, good people, great food, some shopping, delightful scenery of one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Piacere!, Ti Amo.

For now, ciao ciao

Pamellllla
Xoxoxox

Wish you were here!

The sun shines brightly on my holiday!

The rain came in a short blast last evening …. Waking me and soothing me at the same time. I could almost hear the thirsty earth absorbing the drops.

Today the sun shining and brilliant outside, with a breeze in from and on the water. I can see the Bay of Naples out my window and am so enjoying the view.

Time to get ready to go to town … Sorrento first, then Positano to meet the hikers by 4 pm and a boat ride back to this area. Bucket list towns, this is such an awesome vacation! Ohhhhhh the dreams coming true.

Gluten free breakfast provided, fresh fruit and preserves, gluten free breads and cookies, tea, juice … How long has it been since I have dunked cookies in my tea? I must have been very young indeed but I have a memory ….. Thanks mom, for being so wonderful and filling my early life with happy moments that I can pull up any time I want!

Ciao ciao my dear ones, piacere. Beautiful! Wish you were here!

Pamellllllla
Xoxo

Only three delights?

I had made a decision to record three delights a day while on this trip with the women to south of Italy country. Today I have to say that many many more come to mind. And so, here is the list …..

I was picked up from our hotel in Naples to go to Pompeii. Some of us had to go in a car. I decided that would work best for me. A beautiful air conditioned Mercedes arrives. I am seated in the front and enjoying some Italian accented words with the driver. Piacere.

Pompeii is more than I expected. Our tour guide Niño tells story after story and then pictures had meaning. Stories are a wonderful way to share this information. The day was hot and sunny, despite the weather forecast for rain. This has been an amazing three plus weeks of sun and heat. One story of a woman covering her head and she was pregnant, so trying to protect her unborn child from perhaps the heat or ash from the volcanic explosion. So powerful …. Takes my breath away. Niño explains how the casts of the people were made. We see the actual colourful,frescos on the the walls of once, this great ancient city. Niño had asked me to walk with him, he being of small stature, and I tall and with my large brimmed white and black hat which everyone could see and follow. I was a leader of our group.

We walk a distance through the new city of Pompeii to a restaurant that is enchanting. Under the trees shading us from the hot sun … At a table set for twelve … And all items on the menu are possible gluten free. Yes … Out came the most amazing large fluffy bread rolls … Huge! And dipped in local olive oil and balsamic mixture …. Followed by an extremely tasty pasta rolled around spinach and topped with tangy rich tomato sauce. Eyes rolling back in my head … Is this really happening? Five women say “I want what she is having”. Local sparkling white wine, local sparkling rose … Sitting once again beside Francesco as he explains about the wines of the region and the foods in the area. I ask for and receive large light green round tasty olives! I feel normal eating here, not like a high maintenance person requiring special care. I feel special also and as a leader in the group, I am feeling appreciated and included.

As we pull up to the agritourismo …. My breath catches in my throat. Trees heavy with lemons, some yellow and ripe … Some still green and smaller …. This place is a magical home. We get our luggage and walk through the grove of trees …. Not a short distance, and rough with large stones on the path, not unlike the ancient streets of Pompeii from this afternoon. Again as we approach the home building I am overcome with gratitude for the beauty of this place. We rest a moment and then the rooms are assigned …. Debbie and I – who I thought had to share, are given a room far more grand in space than imaginable with separate sleeping areas, shared bathroom and the most magnificent view of the ocean. This place is spectacular. I think if I did nothing but be in this room for the week it would be enough! I cry and weep openly for a few minutes … Sheer joy and gratitude. Can this be happening to me?

The view includes the lights of the city of Naples across the bay, Mount Vesuvius, a well placed and very old tree with a long trunk and branches with greenery only on top, grove of greenery on the farm as far as I can see to the water…. The sunset marks the slowing down of the day and I stop to take a long look.

Dinner at eight pm. Several courses … This was a feast even more spectacular than the last. It started with antipasto, grilled eggplant, tiny bright red juicy marinated tomatoes to place atop hot fresh baked gluten free rolls. The gluten free people sit together at the end of the table for ease of serving and to avoid contamination of other foods. Brilliant idea! Four of us …. Olive oil made here tasting subtly of lemon drizzled on the bread. Oh my. A large serving of risotto topped with lemon zest … The aroma of fresh lemons fills the large dining room and I put my nose down to inhale the delight. Oh my …..Then a local white fish prepared in some tasty way, never experienced before … Firm and unique, warm, and satisfying…. A small portion accompanied by potato, peppers, sun dried tomatoes (my favorite dish so far) and lettuce drenched in lemon juices and olive oil …. Heaven! I have been craving vegetables and greenery, tomato and flavours from this region. My cup runneth over … The local wines …. White, red …. More more. And mozzarella cheese made from the milk from their one cow … Is unlike anything I have ever tasted before. The texture is light, smooth and made with love. I can feel it. Our server is describing with pride each course, to Francesco who is then interpreting for all of us. The moment we have been waiting for … The limoncello in a small shot glass shared with a dozen guests. The room comes alive with laughter, cheers, well wishes and then appreciation for this very special day, these people have opened their homes and hearts to our North American group … We take it all in.

Each moment more breathtaking than the last. Today I will hang around the agritourismo while others are going to Walk of the Gods. And tomorrow the island of Capri ….. The next day we have a cooking lesson and make limoncello and home made pizza! Then drive the Amalfi coast on the Friday …. Unbelievable place. Magical …. This is a travel dream come true!

Pamela: Three brilliant and inspirational highlights to share daily ….

The best gluten free thin crust Pizza and Asperol spritz at Rosso Pomodoro
Shopping and supporting Debbie to buy her spunky leggings
Changed hotel, air conditioning, wifi. Good bye to Piña and Maxime, hello to Susi at Hotel Correra 241

Meeting the GAdventures folks at 6 pm …. But first catching up on email and Facebook and photo posting :). Want to go buy big bottle of sparkling water … Love it over here! Brightly coloured modern Hotel Correra 241 …. Our bathroom is upstairs. But spacious and fun!

Later:
Met the group of twelve. Pamellllllla, Debbie, Janie, Marianna, Aurelie, Mavis, Julie, Jane, Ron, ( from Markham Ontario) Barb and Paul (organic farmers from New York State) and Francesco our leader from Napoli and he loves and is very close to his mother. He did leave home at 17 and says this is very unusual for a boy from Napoli! He is a sommelier and also teaches yoga. Out for dinner and gluten free pasta, best olives ever, local red wine and sparkling water. Pasta was bow tie el dente and with tomato sauce on it … And terrific.

Then a walk around to another square in Naples and found gluten free cones for gelato!

Great town, great visit … Tomorrow Pompeii and to our home for the next week in Sorrento.

I may go off the grid for a few days while on tour. I really want to be mindful and get into the nature and home of this place. I will continue to write …. But I might not get to post as often … Not sure about internet.

Till then, ciao ciao my friends and family…. I love you more than you will ever know.

Italy is a place of emotional expression, with horns, with voice, with arm gestures, with food and dancing, with laughing and wine …. With love. I feel it when I am here.

I want to absorb it, make it part of me and carry it forever with me in the future. I feel this is why I am here. Not just to watch it and experience it, and AND to take it in … Let it fill me up and be part of my DNA. Always and forever Italiano.

Ti amo. Mi dispiace. Prego.

Xoxoxox

“I got you babe. ”

Five women holding hands, singing with karaoke you tube, sonny and Cher, I got you babe! How fun is that scene! And it really happened, in Naples!

We had a bottle of white wine and the girls brought back Prosecco and limoncello to share and cheers to good health and our trip tomorrow. They felt bad we made the choice to stay behind today.

Tomorrow we move hotels and join the tour with GAdventures and then to Pompeii the next day on the way to the Agritourismo outside Sorrento.

I am hoping my toe feels better by then however tonight I stubbed it again on the door. Earlier this evening we walked quite a ways to find a restaurant and then back again. The toe is turning many colours and is very tender now. Ouch.

Off to sleep and dream of healing.

Tomorrow to do some. Reading about Sorrento and move to new hotel.

Ciao ciao.

Pamella.

I sat outside on the small but adequate balcony, high above the streets of Naples this morning. To enjoy the sunshine and the sounds, sights and experience of the street below. These were some of my experiences.

People hanging clothes out there balcony, including full sets of sheets, small socks, under garments and all in between.

Ava Maria alter and sill in the wall across the way, just above street level, with fresco of Maria imbedded. And in front on the sill several bouquets of plastic now faded flowers that have been left in honour.

Cobblestone alley / street busy with motor bikes, cars, taxis, pedestrians, dog walkers and their four legged companions.

Individual men and women hanging out of windows above the street and below me across the way. One man reading the paper. One man comes out to smoke a few times, a woman taking a rest from her busy day.

People arriving and ringing buzzer to gain entrance to apartments across the street.

Well dressed, high heeled women, hair looking great, walking.

I notice a store across and down the street a bit and I believe it sells bread products like pretzels, biscotti etc.

Birds, mostly pigeons alighting on roof ledges and areas where no people are present. They don’t stay long. Many I can see high up on the roof top lined up and looking like they are looking back at us.

Sounds of horns beeping, car tires on the cobblestones, people talking and gesturing in strong Italian accent. Often sounding angry and excited!

Shutters and wooden window coverings over balconies where it looks like no one is home.

I think it is time to try to venture out for a bite to eat. It is almost two pm here …. I will see if I can explore some with this foot injury.

Ciao ciao

Pamella of Naples