onboard anticipation, reflections of a morning at sea

Needlepoint and guest lectures

We are not the only cruise ship out here.  Yachts of Seabourn has the Quest in the same waters following our route.  In fact this morning as we sail in to the calm river waters near Parentins, Brazil, their ship shares the area out side the port.  They also have tenders reaching out to bring guests to enjoy the port activities.  They were here first this morning.  We have arrived a little sooner than expected, more than an hour early.
Today will be relaxed and enjoyable.  I have spent most of the morning inside,the Horizons lounge, after I had my walk on deck and then breakfast outside of the Terrace Cafe.
Ready now to drop anchor.  I will go to the room to prepare for the excursion to shore.  I am working alternatively between writing blog posts, checking my cruise ship centres emails and also working on my Caribbean themed needlework glasses case that I started a few days previously.  So many women are working on their needle work projects, it is fun to see.  Relaxing and enjoyable sitting near the window, with natural sunlight and the most beautiful vistas just outside the floor to ceiling windows.
The other gals are attending a guest lecturer this morning, a speaker about future, gloom and doom.  I could not bring myself to contemplate any gloominess on a day or trip as beautiful as this cruise.
I can hear and feel the rumble from far beneath the ship, as the anchor and engines struggle to secure us to the river bottom for a day of tender travel to transport precious cargo and guests to and from the shores and banks of this magnificent river.  Oh what treasures we will see!  Wish you were here!




More River thoughts

Back on the river, on route to Parentins, Brazil

A shore day planned for this afternoon, market and some shopping by the pier.  Some sources state 50 to 100,000 inhabitants in the area.  Known for the Boi Bumba Festival that takes place in June each year.  Dressed in colourful costumes and welcoming visitors from around the world, I am sure this would be a feast of culture and cuisine in the summer.  Today it will be our little Regatta ship tendering passengers in to port to contribute to the local economy with purchase perhaps of locally made handicrafts.  Lovely.
Up for a morning walk around the jogging track on top deck.  Stepping between the Amazon sized bugs that somehow did not survive the night on board the ship.  Close proximity to the shore allows for great views and thoughts of what it must be like to live in this area of the world.     I am enjoying the early morning cruise through the windy, once again mocha coloured Amazon River. 
It has been recommended by a few of the readers of this blog, and some members of the Women’s Travel Club for me to read State of Wonder, a novel by Ann Patchett.  I must try it when I get home or perhaps on my next cruise :). 

Manaus Brazil

Today was Manaus, Brazil

Another hot steamy day on shore.  We arrived a tich late, however it was a spectacular arrival.  
The meeting of the waters, Rio Negro joining with Amazon River forming this incredible color contrast.  The milky coffee-with-cream coloured Amazon from the last few days formed swirls and definite delineated lines in contrast with the very black waters of the Rio Negro.  Swirling and moving along side, almost as in a dance, mocha with black coffee, however not blending, staying in distinct lines and curls.  Almost in the style of yin and yang, beside each other in equal proportion.  
Different density?  Different ph balance?  Water and oil don’t mix, but water and water … Why not mix?  So curious.  And beautiful!  Spectacular really!  I must Google this one day for a better understanding.
The captain selects the black waters for this portion of the journey.
Much of the ship had breakfast at around the same time, and many went off to join tours of jungle treks and rubber plantation historical tour, or city tours.  Around 930 am six of us prepared to walk in to the city of Manaus.  No real plan, armed with a local map and a hope to see the very famous Opera House.  We had also heard of the markets here and hoped to stumble upon those, which we did.  
It was a hot and sunny day, lots of activity and some time shopping.
We returned to our loyal ship for lunch and then off to check out more stops after lunch.  We found a wine  selection in a shop called Top International.  By the way, also carrying a few purses and scarves by the designer label DESIGUAL.  I enjoyed the selection of wine and Swarovski crystal jewelry in the air conditioned and brightly decorated, very modern and clean shop.  Recalling that the previous visit I made to Brazil I had purchased flip flops for each of my beautiful daughters as a gift from my trip.  Now I spy a whole store that sells only the Havaianas style and make of footwear made famous all over the world.  I find a pair in each of the sizes for my daughters, make the purchase and then we proceed back to the ship before the dump of rain.  
I hear the very loud roll of thunder and the air is heavy with moistness, getting ready to turn to rain at any moment.
A great day.  Great wine shared when back in the room.  Specially dining with Laine and Penny, Janie, Adrienne and myself.  Lobster this and lobster that, a great feast.
Good night all, tomorrow more Amazon adventures in the town of Parentins.
Tchau, 
Pamela




Women’s travel club contribution

One of the gals attending this cruise with the Women’s  Travel Club was invited to contribute to this blog.  She comments on the rain, the children, the jungle, the trees, the earth, time, primitive living and the lap of luxury.

Today was the perfect rainy day in the rainforest.  Our first time walking on the red earth.  Tiny tiny gravel, almost clay.  Seeing the rock that is beneath the earth.  How shallow the earth covering is for the rainforest to exist.  To see how primitively these people live on the land.  

We are 1000 miles down the Amazon River and going deeper and deeper into the jungle.  Some trees have to live with in 8 meters of water, for up to 7 months of the year.  The homes on stilts, abandoned for now, this season.    The frames of the houses will be present when the water recedes.  
What is it like to be these children?  To be displayed and used as merchandising, advertising … To earn money for the family.  It is one thing to earn a dollar.  It is another to sell your child and or ask them to beg.  Who teaches that look of hunger and sweetness in the brown eyes of their children?  And like the animals of the jungle, so we pass on our values and behaviour to our young for our survival and theirs.  And what of the exploitive nature of this behaviour ?  When does it end and where does it lead?
We all feel sad about the film display of the cutting of a tree in the forest, clearing the land for agriculture and farming.  Like the movie Avatar we feel deep sadness for the land we are resting on.  
Lap of luxury in this floating resort way down the Amazon River.  This cruise, the food, the comfy beds and crisp white sheets.  He soft fluffy towels and thick plush robes.  The delightful afternoon tea every day at 4 pm.  The complete lack of awareness of the day of the week, the date of the month.  Even the time changes are barely noticed, although I enjoyed the extra hour of sleep last evening.  In a few days I will give it back:). 

More Amazonas Info

General information for cruising the Amazon

Today, after returning to the ship, we had a guest speaker on board providing information to his Road Scholar group and so invited all the guests on board Regatta.  With a full house, we listened intently and then we enjoyed a National Geographic film on the creatures of the Amazon.  I took notes!
Before the film and talk, we ventured off our comfy floating home.
Today’s tour and tender to the lands and village of Boca da Valeria.  Level with the murky milky tea water of this river, we floated in our dry tender boat, as one with the rainforest.  We were engulfed in the rainy season, no umbrella, no raincoat and we were soon coated and soaked with the Amazon rainy season.
Not miserable, not cold, ankle deep in the red mud clay.  The Dolphins entertained us as we enjoyed them at the waters surface, back yomyhemship.  Today I felt  fully engaged in a vibrant, small, active, welcoming community of children and families of Boca da Valeria.  All of them were engaged in welcoming us, the foreign tourists.  
We saw up close the lazy sloths, kept as pets, perhaps?, slow moving and relaxed in the arms of the children who hold them up for our picture taking.  
White egrets, herons, and pink Dolphins abound.  Wow.
The TALK:
All seats taken in Regatta Lounge, we settle in for the talk about our voyage to this country and to this unique region of the world.  Over one half of the planets rainforest is found in the Amazon Basin.  Did you know that fertilizer for this mighty land blows from the desert dust of neighbouring countries?  Brazil is one of the worlds largest producers of food from the ground, 56%.  Herein are 2.5 million species of insects.  Ants are the most significant insects and consume the most leaves of any of the species of life in this area!  Some 450,000 species of plants and trees; one third of all the insects and one half of all the birds in the world are found here.  The area around the river is flat and gets flooded every rainy season for up to seven months.  The surf is world class and surfers from around the world come to catch the single wave.  Up to 150 by 400 miles out into the ocean from the mouth of this river is coloured by,the spilling of the fresh water into the salt water ocean.  The milky color can be seen from far before reaching the river mouth.  
It is up to Brazil to lead the research for the world with regard to plants and healing powers.  Nature based tourism and smaller farming are great ideas.  What about those slow moving sloths that eat only from one tree?  What could we learn of the toxins and why they move so slow?  What is the medical potential of this place?  The peoples eat a diet mostly of manioc and fish.  How do they use the flooded forests?  What are the potential benefits of studying this swollen river?
Fish swim where birds once flew.  The beauty and bounty of the river leave us in awe.  A living laboratory.
Wow
Pamellllla of the jungle!  
Wish you were here.
Ps.  Time to eat AGAIN,  lol
Xoxo
Tomorrow: Manaus, Brazil

Boca da Valeria, Brazil

Boca da Valeria

This is what I imagined when I envisioned the mighty Amazon.  A delta, tributaries of green foliage and tiny boats winding through the mysterious waters of this magnificent river.  A waterway teaming with life, white graceful birds, large pink Dolphins rising to the surface.  Unimaginable creatures below.  I am entertained by the river alive with sounds and sights of wildlife.
My morning walk finds me with my mouth open.  Staring.  Stopping to take pictures over the side from tenth floor walking/ jogging track.  Other gals from the meetup group join me.  We watch the small wooden boats weave along the slight river likely defined by the land poking out after the mighty rains have raised the water level of the main river.  I see cattle in a fenced area. I wonder how  that works?
The villagers coming to greet the ship.  This would be a big day for the hundred inhabitants of this village.  
I see maybe five or six larger buildings, a church, school building and perhaps a few homes, all on stilts and up a bit on the bank preparing for the river to rise another two meters during this, the rainy season on this mighty river, which has its own climate.
Two seasons, wet and dry.  Although hot sunny and muggy this morning, when we take the tender boat over to the small village, the rains come.  I have very functional rubber boots to wear, and light weight long pants, short sleeve shirt and my trusty cotton hat.  
Families bring their children to greet us and for pictures, and wanting some money.  Selling nick backs and also photo opportunities, the poor simple and plentiful families are very excited for a visit from this cruiseship. 
 The Oceania staff and crew have gathered and are making donations to the small school house of trinkets, pencils, paper etc.  They will go over this afternoon bearing gifts to the towns people.  
While on the ship, while on tender over and now after returning, drying off and sitting by the window in Horizons lounge, I can get sightings of the famous pink Dolphins rising over and over to the surface for our enjoyment.  Huge fish and brightly coloured.
More soon.  Boulliabase for lunch, yumm.
Wish you were here
Pamela




Santerem

Today in Santerem

Hot hot hot!  
The morning started with an early arrival in this small city.  It is a Sunday, and the jungle is so close.  The river seems high and active in this, the rainy season.  We dock next to the town and announcements for free shuttle to the Centro.  Between noon and one pm we head off the ship.
Many of the gals head out to an excursion, to see giant lily pads, pink Dolphins and a small boat trip in the Amazon.  Adrienne and I decide to walk to town.  We have guidance from the guest speaker on board from earlier days on the ship, and a map.  We can see the lovely long Boardwalk that runs parallel to the water.
We walk, walk and walk.  Sightings of vultures.  We see buildings boarded up and closed for today.  Hammocks colourful and hanging empty on decks of boats all along the boardwalk.  Fishing is no doubt the main source of livelihood hood here.
The sun is directly overhead and hot.  We were dressed in long pants, mine lulu lemon in light grey.  And then a long sleeve light weight Tilley shirt over top.  With thoughts of rain laters, a hat and raincoat tied around my waist.  They watch, the locals.  We must look different than what they are used to seeing on the hot Sunday streets in their town.

This is a great place to enjoy a relaxing walk.  We see fisherman mending nets and loading and unloading all manner of supplies.  We know there are markets, however not much today but small handicrafts tables by the ship pier.  Nothing of interest to us.
Exhausted we return to the ship.  I throw in a load of laundry, take a swim in the pool and a long shower.  Upstairs to the lounge for tea, and some needle point before dining.  Lovely meal tonight, just us two as we wait for our friends to arrive back on board.  Late night entertainment with cruise director Ray Michaels.  
And tomorrow the tiny village of Boca Da Valeria.  A tiny fishing village of a hundred people!  
Good night, Pam.

heading to Santarem, Brazil

A new day on the Amazon, today we go to port in Santarem.

I am enjoying the green lush coastline as we float gently down the murky earth water Amazon River.  Foliage, branches, and sometimes whole patches of greenery looking a bit like a putting green if it was on a golf course, bobbing along in the water current.  
Flies, birds, blue sky, fluffy rainforest clouds, lush green vegetation, some mountainous areas off in the distance.  All unfamiliar to my North American eyes, except perhaps what looks like house flies at times buzzing around the open windows in the Terrace and Patio areas on deck of this floating resort.  I see some white dots on green lawn surrounding a large estate home, looking like perhaps sheep or goats.  What must that be like?  Trying to keep livestock alive on the coastline of the Amazon River?  
Now planted upstairs at Horizons lounge, there must be two dozen women joined in this spot to learn and practice needlepoint.  Gals making all manner of colourful purses, eye glass cases, and more.  

I am envisioning when we finally land, later today, expecting steamy, muggy and tropical, Amazonas territory.  
I feel totally detached from the urban world.  A different pace, magically transported to a time and space totally unfamiliar to my life experience.  At one with nature, floating with the flora and fauna.  
There is a heaviness in the air, like a blanket of heat and steam.  The creatures who live in this climate will be unique to our experience.  Lush and fertile, likely bursting with sound and language unlike human chatter, awaiting our arrival.
We are advised to ready our bodies for the foreign insects.  Applying bug spray and wipes.  
A few hours of needlework and gorgeous vistas, and I will step foot on soil.
Tchau for now, in Portugese, 
Pamela 



Cruising the Amazon

Entered the Amazon River today

Greetings from the mighty Amazon River.  It seems such a long time ago we booked this.  14 women from Canada, well one is from Australia!  
Travelling together to this amazing place.  We can see land, and forest in the distance from both sides of the ship now.  
Woke up for my walk this morning and the water has turned from that beautiful turquoise blue with white froth … Today browny gold, with hunks of vegetation floating.  We had a great rain for a few minutes.  No waves now … Macapa is the port authority stop … Trying to get to Santarem!  
Looking for pink Dolphins, the largest fresh water creature!  Females larger than males :). Says the captain over the loud speaker, from the bridge.
All along the water temperature is the same as the air temperature, according to the captain.  
As I look out across the river, it appears as sand bars in the distance, horizons changing color and shapes.  
I now have a deck chair on the11th  floor for great vantage point to see the river at various angles.  That was too hot after a few minutes, so off to cool down in the salt water pool.  A shower and dress for afternoon tea.  Gluten free goodies and peppermint tea in Horizons with a stunning view of the jungle forest on both sides.  No wildlife sightings yet.  
Later: time to head back to room for happy hour, prepare for dinner.  Put the needlework away and get ready to enjoy Country Music show tonight in the lounge.  Yeeeehaw!  
Tchau, from the jungles of Brazil
Pamela, of the Amazon