We stayed overnight at Heron Portico hotel in Nairobi. Our flight from Tanzania, Zanzibar was 5 hours delayed. We spent the time sitting in the very small airport lobby. Frustrated at times from the lack of communication and clarity, a good practice in patience. 

We grabbed a taxi from Nairobi airport to the hotel. It felt kind of different to be in such a big city, real roads paved and lots of traffic. Very different from Zanzibar’s Stone Town of very small broken alleys and extremely bumpy and irregular walkways. I have very challenging lack of sense of direction so never really knew where I was as we walked about the town / village and beach area. 

The Heron promised a very much more upscale hotel than the Horizon Palace we left. Modern amenities, real shower and tub, two twin beds and a restaurant downstairs. We were in 1403 on the 4th floor. We met the GAdventures group we are going to spend the next 8 or 16 days with and the CEO, John. 

Up early to pack and have breakfast before sunrise. We loaded into the 7 passenger Land Rover safari vehicle, gold in color, the top raises up so passengers can stand to take photos. 

Driving down the road in Kenya since 7 AM this morning we left Nairobi 715. It’s getting dry outside and dryer. Hot equator sun. Lots of stretches of flat grassland and a few sparse trees. 

The animals we see along include goats and sheep some cows a herd of camels cross the road.  I see up to 4 dogs during the drive. We saw none in South Africa or Zanzibar – Stone Town had lots of feral cats. 

 We see people walking along the road, children out of school, adults carrying sticks, bicycles and motorcycles with multi passenger at once. Up to 4 on one seat. 

Apparently big companies pay to paint homes as a form of advertising – it costs more to live by the road or highway. Unemployment is high. People sell water bottles, rice, fruit, vegetables and in market stalls more products including clothes.  

It’s very hot and dry, twisters of sand can be seen in the distance – silt lifting up from the ground. I asked her guide John, when and how often it rains and he said he can’t remember the last time it rained here.   Very sparse trees, mostly golden coloured ground. Scenery includes a few shrubs, sticks, mountains in the distance at times. We see women walking, dressed in saris, carrying things on their head, and infant children on their backs. School age kids go to school three months of the year get three weeks off then school for three more months and three weeks off …. three months holiday = so school is nine months long. 

There is cloud cover in the distance this morning so we could not see mount Kenya right now, maybe on the way back. Important crops corn / mais, rice and coffee. 

When we get close to a town or a village, there are rumble strips and speed bumps on the main road to keep the speed down I guess to protect people who are crossing the road 

Reminiscent of India, whole families on motorcycles today I saw up to four adults on one motorcycle seat. I see people tending herds of goats and sheep some cows.

We see a herd of camels being shepherded. The guide caution us not to take photos of this tribe of people, they can get angry and throw stones at us. 

Many unfinished buildings, homes, rentals. People have a bit of money to start building then wait 4-5 years until they can do the next floor. 

The bathrooms are both infrequent, and unpleasant for my standards. 

We are heading to Samburu national park (104 sq km) and part is a long a river where the animal go to drink. We hopefully will see some along that area. 

We also stop at Samburu Village to meet the people and have an opportunity to buy things at their Village market .  I am not a fan of this outing. It was very uncomfortable and felt exploitative and complicated and unpleasant. So tonight around the table. After most people had gone to bed the guide John asked me what my thoughts were so I told him it’s important to be a good ancestor, to be truthful and authentic Every day that’s possible I try to speak my truth. It’s not always comfortable. 

Two hours in the park. Driving on safari and viewing animals in their habitat. The park roads are dirt, dry sand, grass, more dirt and dust. This is what I expected of Safari in Africa!! 

Exciting, exhilarating grateful, rewarding and satisfyinseeing the animals, giraffe elephant, impala, warthog ostrich, zebra. Some of my favourites!!

Later!!!

Hey, we are now at the campsite I get what I asked for ha ha … sounds of the night.

 I’m alone in a tent on a foamy on the ground in Africa in a wildlife park in Kenya alone in the night. I can hear the birds I can see the bats I’m just gonna put on some lighter clothes after outdoor shower … and then we’re going to meet for dinner it’s 10 to 7. This is some kind of wild trip.  Rustic. Basic. Exotic. Adventure. 

Later:  sleeping under the stars in a tent in Kenya in Africa, I cannot imagine more quiet …. it is dark. The moon is big and white. The stars are plentiful in the sky.  I expected sounds of animals, I can’t hear any.  There are no fences around this campsite in this national park. Baboons are roaming around the campsite. 

I am grateful for today to see the animals, get out of the city to enjoy this camping experience in my own tent. I am so fortunate for the way this turned out. I had a shower outside in a tent. It was incredible and felt like freedom.

Today we saw, zebra elephant, giraffe, ostrich, impala, lion, warthog, exotic birds, beautiful trees, nests. It was a great day to be on safari in Kenya.

Good night we are going on an early morning safari tomorrow. We have no Wi-Fi tonight. I will sleep good night.

Day two Samburu Park safari

Wow. This is an amazing day – already!!!

I spy Baboons in tent site!!! Off to brush my teeth and meet the group. 

On the road at 6:45, no breakfast for me. 

We have amazing adventure seeing wild animals- including Dikdik (very small deer like critter a bit bigger than a rabbit), Giraffe, Lioness chasing impala, Cheetah family of mom and 4 cubs chase down dikdik and they eat in field while we watch. We stop for a Giraffe herd in distance. Wow!! 12 safari vehicles watching.  

More driving on Red Sandy dry roadways   … Overland. Bumpy. Rustic. Dusty. Fantastic exhilarating. Remarkable.

We see  Red billed Hornbill bird, Elephant herd with babies, beisa 

Oryx Herd. Impala harem (One male. Many female).  Gerenuk. (Giraffe antelope). White cattle egrets around elephant feet eating insects as they step down. 

Reticulated giraffe. Secretary bird is an osprey. Guinea fowl. More Zebra. 

Big bunch of olive baboons. Can be found Only in this park. Black face monkey sitting in the tree watching us. One of the baboons get into someone’s tent and takes medication. Important to keep the zippers closed 🙂

We are back to camp for lunch and a rest. Heading out again at 4 pm for evening Safari. I will rest a while 

No wifi. Only electricity at the kitchen so a few of us are plugged in. 

Third safari, day 2 Samburu National park, Kenya

Out at 400 pm for last Safari of the day, on the other side of the river. Spectacular 

Lions, giraffe, elephant and chasing elusive leopard. Back at 630 after the huge yellow ball sun dips below horizon. 

Time for outdoor shower, dinner, conversation. Bed. 

Good night. 

Travel day to lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Long hot day in Land Rover with a few stops for washroom, water, lunch and I stop at the equator for a visual presentation on the water in the north going clockwise the water in the south going counterclockwise down a drain as shown to us by a person employed at the store where we had lunch.  It’s hot. Lunch was provided by our chef who travels with us through GAdventures tour. 

We left at 6:30 this morning from Sambora national park and drove through the park looking for wildlife . 

We were able to see Mt Kenya off the road on our drive today. We stopped to take pictures of the vegetation now where we are in the middle of the afternoon, 2 o’clock. We will be arriving at destination at five. The vegetation now along the road is much more lush and green with trees even forests, the accommodations en route are more plentiful and luxurious…. More like driving through Alberta farmland  with occasional farm houses. 

Along this drive, they grow coffee, tea, corn, and wheat. Pineapple citrus fruit. Bananas

It looks like it might rain a few drops. 

We stop at an organized Tea plantation where they grow both black tea and arabica coffee. The tea was first Introduced in this area in 1920. They Grow the plants from cuttings as it is faster. Only takes 3 years for tea to grow from the cutting to be useful. It would take much longer from seed.

Arrival at the new tent site is greeted with mostly negative reviews from my travel group who were hoping for a hotel type lodge instead of a rustic camping adventure. A difficult evening adjusting. 

A dinner. A shower. Repacking. Sorting laundry. Now time for bed. A huge day tomorrow full of Safari drive starting at 7 am. 

Night night. 

Day 1 safari on Lake Nakuru 

We woke up in a campsite. Having slept in the tent overnight. We will also stay again tonight. Today will be a full day Safari.  Leaving by 715 am. 

One of the women workers offered to do laundry for a fee. Yay!  Looking forward to fresh clothes again. Haha. They will wash and hang on line. 

We are staying in shared tents. The food is great and the chef is trying hard to keep me healthy. It’s cool to travel  with a chef of our own! 

Zebra herd is seen first. Then grand gazelle. Impala. Pemba warthog. Waterbuck. Water Buffalo. Lion pride. 2 makes. Female. Cubs. Herons. Hornbills. Stork. Rhinoceros with baby. PINK FLAMINGOS. Giraffes with white feet. Baboons.  Ibis. Maribor stork. Spoon billed. Egyptian geese. Fish eagle. Waterbuck. Black face monkey. Hippo. Giant common eland antelope. 

Quick stop to mail postcards to grandsons and daughter. 

Back to flamingos. Heron. Stork. Pelican. Egret.  Cormorant. Love love the birds on the water and shore of alkaline lake. I could spend all day here.  Just watching the peaceful lake water.  The dance of variety of birds. I wish to make a quilt of africa and I would feature this day, these birds. 

Alkaline lake causes trees nearby to die and turn grey. 

We stop a few times for necessary bathroom breaks. Looking forward to lunch. We will be back on the road tomorrow to the final park. 

Afternoon lake Nakuru natl park

Black white colobus monkey up tree

Zebra waterbuck. Baboons. 

Water buffalo.   monkeys 

On route to Maasai Mara, Kenya

Packed up and ready by 630 am. Leaving our tent site at Lake Nakuru. It was rustic. It rained. The morning is clear, cool and not raining. Yay. Breakfast included potatoes and omelet with fruit on side. Warm and satisfying and good preparation for the travel and safari day ahead. 

I took a photo of the sunrise and dew covered cactus. And away we go ….

Up and up mountain road. Many places washed out with big holes. 

Kids walking to school. Little ones waving enthusiastically on rural country roads. In the small towns workers waiting to be selected so they can pick potatoes or corn for the day. 

Maasai people 

Eat goat. Cows. Buy veg.purchase only

Must wear red blanket as top males

Giraffe zebra baboon. So far just getting to our accommodations. Will have more photos later. 

 Full moon day!  

“Once in a very blue moon ..”. Today is that day.  High tides … beautiful blue sky, warm breezes, green turquoise warm sea …. Sailing on the Indian Ocean.  Wow!

Breakfast on the roof top includes herbal local hibiscus tea, rich and red … soothing and lovely as a breakfast delight. We have seen the flower and plant on our walk about in the area. 

The GAdventures guide (Francois) from South Africa continues to be awesome, even from a distance.  He suggested and connected me with Eliza through WhatsApp for transfers and other tour arrangements as we wish …. 4 days in Zanzibar and she has made excellent suggestions and arrangements for us.  We are five women travelling in this foreign country.  Eliza has been excellent.  

Today we were ready at 830 am for pick up at or Horizon Palace hotel (not fancy, affordable, and adequate for our stay.  Old building with heavy doors, dark wood stairs, no elevator… breakfast and view included off the 6th floor).  

The traffic / parking congestion is quite unbelievable this morning in this very old town … no place to park, not really paved roads, people in Tuk tuks, scooters, bicycles, cars, vans, trucks and tourist vehicles trying to turn around in very small spaces …. We watch in amazement.  

We are driven to Fumba … maybe 12 to 15 kms … allowing us to really see the way people live here … and drive!  Haha

Locally constructed sailing dhows await, fitted with large sailed, outboard motors, marine radios, life jackets, snorkeling equipment, fresh local fruits, soda pop and water keep cold on ice. 

The dhow is anchored and we have to step into the warm sea to board a little shuttle boat to then get on board the dhow.  It is an experience already!!

We are moving through the sea .. gorgeous light green turquoise color … we are provided quality snorkeling gear according to our size.  The skipper cuts the tops off fresh coconut and we all have our own, then chops up the coconut meat for tasting.  Yum. It’s a calm beautiful morning. The sun is hot and high, the breeze is warm and inviting.  

We are invited to jump overboard at the first anchor spot.  Striped fishes, remind me of early life experience with tropical fish in aquarium (zebra black and white, yellow fish … coral of a variety of shapes and textures, finger coral, Cauliflower and broccoli shaped also.  Starfish, urchins …. as if reaching up for us … wow!).  The water was so warm … I was in several times maybe up to two hours in full?  Maybe more.  

At least a half hour to swim around and float in this amazing first experience…. Then back on board and on to the next stop.  More snorkeling…. More floating …. Then a stop at the uninhabited sand bar beach.  It looked pretty big to me as we arrived.  Huge actually.  Lots of other dhow boats anchored and people walking and swimming.  

Then the tide continued to rise … the girls I was with, who were sitting on the beach, had to move up the sand hill as the water was reaching their toes and belongings.  I continued to float around in green clear glorious salty bliss.  When we sailed by the sandbar later in the day it was completely covered in sea … no evidence we had ever been there.  Fascinating.  

The guide advises no jellyfish, no sharks … he is right.  Safe beautifully clear warm water.  Wow. Light turquoise green as far as I can see.  

Another snorkel stop, the guide presented us with two starfish from the bottom and encouraged us to do more snorkeling.  We are anchored again, floating in this warm salty soup water.. everyone taking pictures and swimming in the coral and fish.

We can sail to the green lagoon now, the tide is high enough and rising fast.  Amazing sights, light green water, we can see the bottom.  Dark rugged rock topped with cactus and trees … the shapes are magical and like a fantasy place.

Our destination, more uninhabited island …. Headed for lunch!  We park, we are seated, we have fluffy white rice, vegetarian curry, lobster, shrimp, and other options … ha ha … you can tell which caught my attention!  There are bathroom facilities in a rustic kind of way … drummers and dancers with cultural music … walks along the sandy beach.  Vendors with local items for sale (local from Zanzibar), like a market with a few booths.  

After eating we walk to see the fallen, but still alive, 500 year old baobab tree and taste the fruit that grows from it.  People are invited to climb on the tree.  It’s pretty special!

Back to the dhow boats to begin our sail home.  Large sails are hoisted and the sea winds have picked up so we move along quickly.  Huge splashes over the sides, warm winds, people are tired and dozing.  It’s a beautiful sail back to the main island.  Due to very high tide we are unable to disembark at the same place … so we are anchored In a little cove.  Shuttled on motor boats and helped to walk through the shallow water to some rocky steps and climb out.  We walk a path and meet up with our driver from this morning.  It is about 5 pm when we return to the hotel.

It has been a big day!  We shower and start to relax, we need to pack up tonight and tomorrow fly off to Nairobi.

Good night wonderful loving family and friends …. Till the next post on this Africa adventure …. Stay well!  Wish you were here.

Hugs 

Pamela

We’re meeting this morning at 11 AM to take a boat to Prison island.  It is Wednesday 30 August 2023 and I can hardly remember what day or date it is!  I have been gone almost two weeks, I am disoriented and travelling deep in the heart and soul of Africa.  

Jambo, the locals say, as a greeting here in Zanzibar.  Hakuna Matata means no worries … 

Jomba is our guide.   (His name means uncle) We walk together to the beach not far from our hotel – where we meet our captain. In a very small boat he will take us back and forth to prison island to see the giant tortoises. I have my bathing suit gear in my back pack, excited for this half day adventure.

Initially the seas are calm … unlike yesterday when we saw much higher surf splashing water to the shore and walkways.  Lots of boats going back-and-forth to the island. Lots of container ships and a few islands surrounded by beaches can be seen from our private small boat, a little bigger than a skiff. It seats the 7 of us including captain and guide, comfortably and with good balance.

We observe many many small and medium sized boats – some for hire, some fisher persons… some catamarans, a single solo person atop what looks like a long canoe (alone, standing, navigating the waters, no motor, like a stand up paddle canoe).  

I can see the beautiful white sandy beach ahead and the Prison island where we’re going to spend a few hours today. The colour of the water is beautiful light green turquoise blue, graduating to dark turquoise. Clear and so beautiful.  

Greetings from the local guides as we arrive … “slowly. Slowly”, reminding us to not hurry or rush, take our time.  And “Hakuna matata” Greetings encouraging a slow pace and to enjoy this special place.

There are three names of this island … Prison Island where in 1893 a prison was built.  Within very short time sickness of cholera and yellow fever broke out …the prison idea was abandoned.  It later became a restaurant to bring in tourists.  7 or 8 years ago they stopped that practice and very recently the island was sold privately.  It will become a hotel and restaurant once again to draw travellers to the area.

Another name is Changu Island …. So named for the unique fish in the area.  On the island are also exotic birds, including peacocks and fabulous old trees including the beautiful baobab.

The island also is famous for its home of many giant tortoises.  So it is also referred to as Tortoise Island.  These beautiful hard shelled creatures live to 200 years old, the oldest one we today meet is 150.  They are a giant land tortoise and vegetarian and make their homes on land, seeking water to drink and to rest when it is hot (like elephants they lay in the water nearby and their limbs are deep in the mud giving a cooling sensation).   The female has short tail, are smaller in stature and have more smooth and flat top shell.  The larger males, long tail used for balance and have a more hilly and valley type top shell.  When pregnant, the female digs a hole, plants the eggs and covers the area.  Three months later the young will hatch and climb out of the hole to begin their life here.  Tortoises of all ages live here now, the area is protected, as are the creatures, by the government.  This area is important to tourism in the area.  We are encouraged to feed greenery to the waiting mouths and to gently massage them in the neck, which they love.  Be careful, they can bite.

Moral of todays adventure ….to live a long happy life, be like the tortoise …. Be vegetarian and be very slow. 

I switch to bathing suit and find the sandy beach to enter the Indian Ocean.  The water is clear, warm ish, inviting, wavy and so beautiful and inviting.  I wish I could stay all day.  I watch a few beautiful locals or tourists women jump in the sea fully clothed and laughing.  They then hold hands and laugh so very hard some fall in the surf.  It is touching and sweet to watch the joy and intimacy- and be part of it with them.  

The tide is rapid and our small boat is ready to take us to Zanzibar island …. We must go.  The waves have increased, the seas are saucy and give us a good wet drenching on the way home.  I am exhilarated and love the experience more than I can say.

Out for dinner at the Sunset Bar at Africa House,  close by our hotel … early night.  We have an 8 hour day tomorrow on blue safari (which means journey) exploring the sea, with snorkeling and swimming.  I am so very thrilled.  

What an extraordinary treat!

My South Africa adventure has come to an end ….

Arriving last night at the airport, around 730 pm local time.  My flight was from Johannesburg through Nairobi.  I had planned for me to meetup with 4 women from Victoria area as they were scheduled to fly in around 815 pm.  Also I had arranged a pick up transfer from airport for all five of us.

It is a small airport, only 4 carousels for luggage arrival.  However, many lineups for processing customs, passports and evisas …. All of the lineups take time.  I was through quickly, the other gals later.  

Once we were all processed, we were taken to our hotel, the Horizon Palace.  A two star hotel in StoneTown….. which is the older part of Zanzibar, Tanzania.  Simple, old, 6 flights of solid wooden steps, high ceilings, big doorways, tile and stone, old dark wood, stained glass windows … reminding me of India.  

We got settled in our rooms and quickly prepared for sleep, each bed with bed frames and netting tied back.  Up in the morning, not too early, for breakfast at the rooftop cafe with lovely view of the Indian Ocean and some old town roof tops and steeples.  

After breakfast,we gathered our stuff for a walk. Off to find a currency exchange, some water and explore the beach reaching out to the turquoise water, and boardwalk area along the sea.  We stopped for a beverage at Sunset Bar in Africa House Hotel. We continued along the walk through some local park area and market stalls.  

The manager at our hotel volunteered to arrange a ride for us to find a liquor and grocery store for water and wine.  We enjoyed a simple supper at the restaurant on the roof of our hotel and another early night.  The staff here are friendly and kind to us.  

Tomorrow heading to Prison Island …. Home of giant tortoises and I am hoping for a swim …. The next day a snorkelling adventure …. Stay tuned!  

Here I sit, by the pool in a garden paradise surrounded by exotic palm,ferns and greenery I don’t recognize. I am staying at Umbhaba Eco Lodge outside Hazyview in South Africa not far from Kruger National Park.  Listening to the unfamiliar enchanting birdsong, trickle of waterfall leading to the outdoor unheated pool, distant music unrecognizable yet soothing coming from reception area at the Lodge.  

Today is an optional day – part of GAdventures Kruger in Depth tour.  I have been part of three safari days and lots of driving and experiences since Johannesburg a week ago.  Today I select for quiet, apart from the group, to read, relax, recover, rest, dip leisurely in the pool and catch up to my life.

If anyone asks what I did today,I might reply with “nothing”. I slept in, woke up to the rhythm of my own knowing (not alarm), gathered some laundry to send out …. Had a hot gentle breakfast carefully prepared so that I can heal my glutened insides, with a cup or two of rooibus tea, fresh squeezed orange juice, lemon water to replenish my liquids. 

When on safari with 12 to 15 others, there is limited and unpredictable toilet stops, so I carefully calculate and limit liquid intake.  I must be careful and observant of others sharing the vehicle, duck and get out of the way of the serious photographers, listen to stories, be ever watchful for signs of animals as we are in their homeland, and we are here to observe that life.  Unfamiliar, at times uncomfortable and certainly unpredictable and exciting moments. The mind and body alert. 12 or more hours spent away from comfort for the purpose of this unusual enjoyment.

Nothingness today is to let down all these expectations and social appropriateness.  To have zero agenda for what seems like, unlimited hours on end … catching up on drinks of water, dipping in the pool, looking over recently taken photographs, listening without knowing, no attachment or opinion about stories.  Almost no internet connection, slightly intermittent at best.  Nothingness feels like self care, self attention, self kindness, even self indulgence.  

I have many more days coming of tours, travel, flights, taking-reviewing-posting photos,Re reading texts, enjoying tasty meals, navigating awkward moments, packing, unpacking, feeling disorganized and confused, hiking on unfamiliar and uneven landscape, listening to books on Audible, checking Facebook, looking for common ground and finding friendly kind connections, sunrises and sunsets, moon viewing in night skies, solo mindful moments and walks with others, open air vehicle safari, meaningful and trivial talks, managing heat in Africa, writing my thoughts to post on this blog, sending and receiving love and gratitude with dear family and friends back home and abroad, and other activities.  

Today, nothing seems like everything I need so I can keep doing the other things ever growing on my list …. 

Stay tuned

With love

Pamela in South Africa

This morning, greeted again with that wonderful red orange ball of a sun … we had a light breakfast and walking tour for three hours, about 5 kms.  Stopping briefly to learn about local culture, trees,termites and critters.  It was great to go on a long walk.  

Back at lodge for brunch, an hour swim in the pool to cool down.  FYI – the pools here are not heated and very refreshing and mostly I swim by myself.  Today, Manon and a few others participated… it was nice.

Lunch followed, the lodge staff are taking very good care of my food needs.  It is lovely. The manager is really lovely too.

After lunch all aboard the bus to Kruger National Park where we divided up to go on Jeep safari. Wow … front row seat to all the amazing animals in this part of the world!  Elephant, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, zazu bird, doves, baboon, crocodile, impala, nyala, zebra, sun rise and spectacular sun set skies.  Wow…. Just wow!  

We arrived back from Safari and greeted to a fine dining experience in a cave … lit with glass jars, barbecue and salad.  Early to bed,full day safari tomorrow and we change lodges.  Staying at the next one for three nights … yay!

(I am posting lots of pictures on facebook. They are so slow to upload with this weak wifi in our tent)

https://www.travelpulse.ca/news/tour-operators/travelpulse-on-scene-south-africa-with-g-adventures

Good night my loves, my family and great friends.  Sleep well.  Miss you all and wish you were here!