Good morning, taking a few moments to jot down some overall thoughts of my African journey thus far.  

The preparation and packing is important.  The flight is long.  I had some apprehension right from the start … even back when the booking started.  East Africa in Depth with GAdventures has a 4 out of 5 rating for physical activity.  I am not feeling physically fit “enough”, am I? And what does that even mean?  I really don’t know if they consider persons of my age or how do they measure this?  

Then I added the South Africa tour … Kruger in Depth to begin my journey.  Adding 4 nights in Zanzibar Tanzania for some off-tour activities with travel buddies in between the safari tours.  A month in total to be away from home and on the road living out of a back pack and on the move every night or two.

Preparing for basic living, sleeping bag, pillow, clothes but not too many so I can do laundry along the way and carry all items on my back in a pack.  I do not want to check in luggage and that limits the amount I want to bring.  I probably squished too much in, in retrospect, but not sure what I would have not taken as I have used most (all) clothes thus far.  Medications and what-if items … hats, rain gear, lots of layers just in case it is cold … bathing suit and water shoes as I was hopeful to have swim time in the ocean. On and on goes the list, and then the eliminating that which does not fit in the carryon bag.  Phew.

The first few weeks were not as basic accommodations although still, being away from luxuries and available washrooms as we drove on bus and ventured into the National Park.  One needs to be ready for waiting long time for comforts at times.  Always travel with toilet paper .. haha.  I swam in outdoor pools that were fed water from the cold water tap and the rain …. Not big, but refreshing.  I enjoyed this.  The beach time in Zanzibar was magical and the blue safari unexpected and totally enjoyed by me – a full day in the water and seeing the location from a dhow!

Small and large airports with long delays and yet, all arrived safely at the destination …. Patience is the word for air travel in 2023.

Camping in tents has been common in my early life experience and I kind of like the idea of listening to wild sounds.  This last week has been in tents, sometimes sleeping on slim foamies. Often walking a distance to kitchen and toilet facilities.  The sounds of the night, the sights of dawn, the pelting of rain, the howl of the wind, thunder and lightning, lineups with others sharing the accommodations.  Food cooked for 16 people and all the various needs and special requests.  Wildlife within arms length …. 

The weather has been pretty good, lots of hot hot, cooler temperatures also and some big rain storm that was so loud and heavy rains falling at once.  Fascinating part of the world. 

The wildlife has vastly exceeded all my expectations…. Variety and quantity everywhere we have been on safari.  Close up lions, far away elephants and giraffe …. Shy warthogs with radio antenna tails when they run away from us. All kinds of antelope bouncing.  Close up enough to see the eyelashes of elephants and giraffe. Huge hippo, water buffalo and wildebeest. Tiny dikdik.  Ostrich and flamingos,storks and exotic birds of prey. Friendly baboons and curious monkeys.  Cats that reside in the area including a few cheetah sightings and evidence of leopard close by, likely watching us from a hiding spot.  Families of wild creatures, with babes close by and playing or learning to hunt.  All so close and exciting for all of us.  Some we photograph and some we sit or stand in the safari vehicle and marvel from our safe place.

The trees and shrubs, the vast grasslands, mountainous views, river beds dry and active, the drives on paved roads in Kruger and sand and rock in east Africa … some days mucky and slippery from night rains.  The cactus, wild and flowering.  Bright greens and colors, grey reddish soils d long yellow gold grasses.  The trees framing sunrise and sunsets that take my breath away as I request the driver to suddenly stop so I can capture the moment on my device for later viewing again and again.  The sights along the rural roadways in Kenya and South Africa …. The colourful clothing of the locals, the work clothes and footwear of many packed into backs of trucks or 4 seated on a motorbike hitching a ride to or from the work site and home.  The children in school uniforms, in play clothes, young and old tending the goats, sheep and cows.

I try to meditate every day and try to stay in the present moment as much as possible.  I want to post and keep you all engaged and with me as I journey on.  

Stay tuned for more.  Wish you were here.

Love Pamela of Africa

Last night was an amazing loud thunder and lightning storm with torrential rain for hours until bedtime.

This morning up and packed by 6 am. In our safari vehicle for last drive through Maasai Mara park. 

Giraffes grazing on acacia tree tops in sunrise. Battery charger charging. On my way!  

Impala. Gail says they look spring loaded when they run

I love the trees here very unique beautiful in the sun Rise. 

Pumba warthogs that put tails straight up when they run from us. 

Leaving park at 730 am. The women trying to sell trinkets at the gate. The Maasai people wear red plaid coverings over shoulders and tied around neck. Children walking to school waving. 

Arrived in Nairobi city limits. Amani garden for lunch. Lunch was covered by our tour dollars. 

Together we are transformed = pamoja tunabadilishwa

Quilt. Textile coop. I love the textiles and fabric art. 

Things to think about: to see this area it is probably important to be ok with being uncomfortable. Or at least be prepared to suspend your privilege enough to be ok with basic, rustic forms of accommodation.  What are you willing to live with to feel this country? To embrace its struggles? To see its riches and animals. What is it worth to you?  If you don’t wish to give up all your privileges and comfort- this won’t be the tour for you.   There are more expensive options that perhaps you can and are willing to try so you can be more comfortable. Just food for thought. 

A quiet relaxing evening arranging flights for tomorrow for the last leg of the tour. Flights tomorrow afternoon. 

Take care all. 

Wish you were here

Love p 

Xo

A bed. Big enough for me. Plenty of covers. A pillow. Mosquito netting. Private bathroom. 

A great evening Safari on arrival. Some going in hot air balloon tomorrow to take in some animal sightings from the air. Wow. I am opting for land safari, though tempting. 

My last post I mentioned the maribou stork but looks like spell check called it a storm. A very large vulture looking bird, dark feathers and long beak. One of the ugly 5 – as they are called. This stork, vulture, hyena, warthog, wildebeest. We saw three already here and on this trip to Africa I have seen all 5!  Yay. 

The big five, although my group saw a leopard in South Africa, I only saw evidence of it. Maybe tomorrow. The other 4 I have seen. 

Good night and have a great sleep. 

MORNING

quiet night but up early with those heading out for balloon ride. They left early early. 

Maribou stork flying over. We drive by some school children on way to school carrying little bundles of firewood. They have cooked shared lunch together and everyone contributes 

Yesterday we stopped at village of Narok. Today safari in park. 7 am to 5 pm. It’s crisp fresh morning air. 

Zebra. Another big stork standing alone. About 3 feet tall with massive wingspan. Elephant muffins look fresh. Wildebeest   Impala. Baboons. Giraffe. Thompson gazelle, One horn. Topi is savannah cowboy., The fastest antelope and very brave and faces its predators. Buffalo. Elephant family. Ostrich. 3 brother cheetahs posing for landrover vehicles. 

Some vehicles stuck in muddy backroad areas. It rained again last night and roads are bumpy and washed out at best of times. We stop to help out again. Our vehicle and driver are more capable of assisting. 

We stopped briefly at an airstrip in the park, for bathroom break. Then back to the ultimate safari search. 

A honeymooning couple of lions resting on a rock. Watching small family herd of elephants walking. 

A little jackal. Heartbeast. Zebra. Hyenas carrying carcass and running. 3 warthogs in a mud puddle. Cheetah in a field of dry grass with blood on its mouth, having something to eat. 

4 lions – young. In the small bushes watching a large solo Buffalo. Hippos in the Mara River. 

We stop for lunch. On border with Serengeti and Tanzania with Maasai / Kenya. White markers show the border. Animals as far as I can see. Wildebeest and zebra mostly   . Southern ground hornbill birds 

Back to the river to spy lots more hippopotamus. Egyptian geese. huge crocodiles. Yellow billed storks. 

In a tree we spy the remains of a baby zebra. The closest we get to spying a leopard today. 

This stop we have beds off the ground and a little nicer accommodations with private bathrooms per tent or little house. 

Cactus and also some greenery and few flowers in this area. 

The rain started about 330 pm. Pouring down. We are to meet at 4 to head out on Safari. My first rain Safari. Haha. Bring out the rain gear and let’s see what’s happening in the National Park!  

This famous popular park is 1500 sq Kms. The previous parks 104 to 180 sq Kms. 

Wildebeest first up. Maribou storm – another of the big five ugly animals. 

Then herd of elephants. So cool to watch the babies following along and between. Cute!  Happy birthday Verona!!

We watched a male impala with his harem. He was singly focused. 

Hyenas. Also on big five ugly list. Running. Hard to photograph   Zebra. 

Hyenas running toward giraffes 

Beautiful majestic Maasai Giraffe herd. A tower?  Youngster and various shades. Darker, brighter more color as young.

Buffalo. Loser male Impalas. More wildebeest. 

5 pm rain stops. Radio chatter sounds excited. Off we go. ….

Herd of topi antelopes with impala mom and babe in the huge space of this park!

Water buffalo. Ostrich. Few jackals. This landscape is so beautiful. Dark soil. Water ponds. Rock outcrops. Greenery is sparse but we are going cross country. 

Lions. A mating couple. Then a mom and two cubs. 

Wow. Great driving. Wonderful sights. Park closes at 630 and that is exactly what time  we drove out. Perfect timing. Back to camp. Shower. Dinner at 730 pm. 

We stayed overnight at Heron Portico hotel in Nairobi. Our flight from Tanzania, Zanzibar was 5 hours delayed. We spent the time sitting in the very small airport lobby. Frustrated at times from the lack of communication and clarity, a good practice in patience. 

We grabbed a taxi from Nairobi airport to the hotel. It felt kind of different to be in such a big city, real roads paved and lots of traffic. Very different from Zanzibar’s Stone Town of very small broken alleys and extremely bumpy and irregular walkways. I have very challenging lack of sense of direction so never really knew where I was as we walked about the town / village and beach area. 

The Heron promised a very much more upscale hotel than the Horizon Palace we left. Modern amenities, real shower and tub, two twin beds and a restaurant downstairs. We were in 1403 on the 4th floor. We met the GAdventures group we are going to spend the next 8 or 16 days with and the CEO, John. 

Up early to pack and have breakfast before sunrise. We loaded into the 7 passenger Land Rover safari vehicle, gold in color, the top raises up so passengers can stand to take photos. 

Driving down the road in Kenya since 7 AM this morning we left Nairobi 715. It’s getting dry outside and dryer. Hot equator sun. Lots of stretches of flat grassland and a few sparse trees. 

The animals we see along include goats and sheep some cows a herd of camels cross the road.  I see up to 4 dogs during the drive. We saw none in South Africa or Zanzibar – Stone Town had lots of feral cats. 

 We see people walking along the road, children out of school, adults carrying sticks, bicycles and motorcycles with multi passenger at once. Up to 4 on one seat. 

Apparently big companies pay to paint homes as a form of advertising – it costs more to live by the road or highway. Unemployment is high. People sell water bottles, rice, fruit, vegetables and in market stalls more products including clothes.  

It’s very hot and dry, twisters of sand can be seen in the distance – silt lifting up from the ground. I asked her guide John, when and how often it rains and he said he can’t remember the last time it rained here.   Very sparse trees, mostly golden coloured ground. Scenery includes a few shrubs, sticks, mountains in the distance at times. We see women walking, dressed in saris, carrying things on their head, and infant children on their backs. School age kids go to school three months of the year get three weeks off then school for three more months and three weeks off …. three months holiday = so school is nine months long. 

There is cloud cover in the distance this morning so we could not see mount Kenya right now, maybe on the way back. Important crops corn / mais, rice and coffee. 

When we get close to a town or a village, there are rumble strips and speed bumps on the main road to keep the speed down I guess to protect people who are crossing the road 

Reminiscent of India, whole families on motorcycles today I saw up to four adults on one motorcycle seat. I see people tending herds of goats and sheep some cows.

We see a herd of camels being shepherded. The guide caution us not to take photos of this tribe of people, they can get angry and throw stones at us. 

Many unfinished buildings, homes, rentals. People have a bit of money to start building then wait 4-5 years until they can do the next floor. 

The bathrooms are both infrequent, and unpleasant for my standards. 

We are heading to Samburu national park (104 sq km) and part is a long a river where the animal go to drink. We hopefully will see some along that area. 

We also stop at Samburu Village to meet the people and have an opportunity to buy things at their Village market .  I am not a fan of this outing. It was very uncomfortable and felt exploitative and complicated and unpleasant. So tonight around the table. After most people had gone to bed the guide John asked me what my thoughts were so I told him it’s important to be a good ancestor, to be truthful and authentic Every day that’s possible I try to speak my truth. It’s not always comfortable. 

Two hours in the park. Driving on safari and viewing animals in their habitat. The park roads are dirt, dry sand, grass, more dirt and dust. This is what I expected of Safari in Africa!! 

Exciting, exhilarating grateful, rewarding and satisfyinseeing the animals, giraffe elephant, impala, warthog ostrich, zebra. Some of my favourites!!

Later!!!

Hey, we are now at the campsite I get what I asked for ha ha … sounds of the night.

 I’m alone in a tent on a foamy on the ground in Africa in a wildlife park in Kenya alone in the night. I can hear the birds I can see the bats I’m just gonna put on some lighter clothes after outdoor shower … and then we’re going to meet for dinner it’s 10 to 7. This is some kind of wild trip.  Rustic. Basic. Exotic. Adventure. 

Later:  sleeping under the stars in a tent in Kenya in Africa, I cannot imagine more quiet …. it is dark. The moon is big and white. The stars are plentiful in the sky.  I expected sounds of animals, I can’t hear any.  There are no fences around this campsite in this national park. Baboons are roaming around the campsite. 

I am grateful for today to see the animals, get out of the city to enjoy this camping experience in my own tent. I am so fortunate for the way this turned out. I had a shower outside in a tent. It was incredible and felt like freedom.

Today we saw, zebra elephant, giraffe, ostrich, impala, lion, warthog, exotic birds, beautiful trees, nests. It was a great day to be on safari in Kenya.

Good night we are going on an early morning safari tomorrow. We have no Wi-Fi tonight. I will sleep good night.

Day two Samburu Park safari

Wow. This is an amazing day – already!!!

I spy Baboons in tent site!!! Off to brush my teeth and meet the group. 

On the road at 6:45, no breakfast for me. 

We have amazing adventure seeing wild animals- including Dikdik (very small deer like critter a bit bigger than a rabbit), Giraffe, Lioness chasing impala, Cheetah family of mom and 4 cubs chase down dikdik and they eat in field while we watch. We stop for a Giraffe herd in distance. Wow!! 12 safari vehicles watching.  

More driving on Red Sandy dry roadways   … Overland. Bumpy. Rustic. Dusty. Fantastic exhilarating. Remarkable.

We see  Red billed Hornbill bird, Elephant herd with babies, beisa 

Oryx Herd. Impala harem (One male. Many female).  Gerenuk. (Giraffe antelope). White cattle egrets around elephant feet eating insects as they step down. 

Reticulated giraffe. Secretary bird is an osprey. Guinea fowl. More Zebra. 

Big bunch of olive baboons. Can be found Only in this park. Black face monkey sitting in the tree watching us. One of the baboons get into someone’s tent and takes medication. Important to keep the zippers closed 🙂

We are back to camp for lunch and a rest. Heading out again at 4 pm for evening Safari. I will rest a while 

No wifi. Only electricity at the kitchen so a few of us are plugged in. 

Third safari, day 2 Samburu National park, Kenya

Out at 400 pm for last Safari of the day, on the other side of the river. Spectacular 

Lions, giraffe, elephant and chasing elusive leopard. Back at 630 after the huge yellow ball sun dips below horizon. 

Time for outdoor shower, dinner, conversation. Bed. 

Good night. 

Travel day to lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Long hot day in Land Rover with a few stops for washroom, water, lunch and I stop at the equator for a visual presentation on the water in the north going clockwise the water in the south going counterclockwise down a drain as shown to us by a person employed at the store where we had lunch.  It’s hot. Lunch was provided by our chef who travels with us through GAdventures tour. 

We left at 6:30 this morning from Sambora national park and drove through the park looking for wildlife . 

We were able to see Mt Kenya off the road on our drive today. We stopped to take pictures of the vegetation now where we are in the middle of the afternoon, 2 o’clock. We will be arriving at destination at five. The vegetation now along the road is much more lush and green with trees even forests, the accommodations en route are more plentiful and luxurious…. More like driving through Alberta farmland  with occasional farm houses. 

Along this drive, they grow coffee, tea, corn, and wheat. Pineapple citrus fruit. Bananas

It looks like it might rain a few drops. 

We stop at an organized Tea plantation where they grow both black tea and arabica coffee. The tea was first Introduced in this area in 1920. They Grow the plants from cuttings as it is faster. Only takes 3 years for tea to grow from the cutting to be useful. It would take much longer from seed.

Arrival at the new tent site is greeted with mostly negative reviews from my travel group who were hoping for a hotel type lodge instead of a rustic camping adventure. A difficult evening adjusting. 

A dinner. A shower. Repacking. Sorting laundry. Now time for bed. A huge day tomorrow full of Safari drive starting at 7 am. 

Night night. 

Day 1 safari on Lake Nakuru 

We woke up in a campsite. Having slept in the tent overnight. We will also stay again tonight. Today will be a full day Safari.  Leaving by 715 am. 

One of the women workers offered to do laundry for a fee. Yay!  Looking forward to fresh clothes again. Haha. They will wash and hang on line. 

We are staying in shared tents. The food is great and the chef is trying hard to keep me healthy. It’s cool to travel  with a chef of our own! 

Zebra herd is seen first. Then grand gazelle. Impala. Pemba warthog. Waterbuck. Water Buffalo. Lion pride. 2 makes. Female. Cubs. Herons. Hornbills. Stork. Rhinoceros with baby. PINK FLAMINGOS. Giraffes with white feet. Baboons.  Ibis. Maribor stork. Spoon billed. Egyptian geese. Fish eagle. Waterbuck. Black face monkey. Hippo. Giant common eland antelope. 

Quick stop to mail postcards to grandsons and daughter. 

Back to flamingos. Heron. Stork. Pelican. Egret.  Cormorant. Love love the birds on the water and shore of alkaline lake. I could spend all day here.  Just watching the peaceful lake water.  The dance of variety of birds. I wish to make a quilt of africa and I would feature this day, these birds. 

Alkaline lake causes trees nearby to die and turn grey. 

We stop a few times for necessary bathroom breaks. Looking forward to lunch. We will be back on the road tomorrow to the final park. 

Afternoon lake Nakuru natl park

Black white colobus monkey up tree

Zebra waterbuck. Baboons. 

Water buffalo.   monkeys 

On route to Maasai Mara, Kenya

Packed up and ready by 630 am. Leaving our tent site at Lake Nakuru. It was rustic. It rained. The morning is clear, cool and not raining. Yay. Breakfast included potatoes and omelet with fruit on side. Warm and satisfying and good preparation for the travel and safari day ahead. 

I took a photo of the sunrise and dew covered cactus. And away we go ….

Up and up mountain road. Many places washed out with big holes. 

Kids walking to school. Little ones waving enthusiastically on rural country roads. In the small towns workers waiting to be selected so they can pick potatoes or corn for the day. 

Maasai people 

Eat goat. Cows. Buy veg.purchase only

Must wear red blanket as top males

Giraffe zebra baboon. So far just getting to our accommodations. Will have more photos later. 

 Full moon day!  

“Once in a very blue moon ..”. Today is that day.  High tides … beautiful blue sky, warm breezes, green turquoise warm sea …. Sailing on the Indian Ocean.  Wow!

Breakfast on the roof top includes herbal local hibiscus tea, rich and red … soothing and lovely as a breakfast delight. We have seen the flower and plant on our walk about in the area. 

The GAdventures guide (Francois) from South Africa continues to be awesome, even from a distance.  He suggested and connected me with Eliza through WhatsApp for transfers and other tour arrangements as we wish …. 4 days in Zanzibar and she has made excellent suggestions and arrangements for us.  We are five women travelling in this foreign country.  Eliza has been excellent.  

Today we were ready at 830 am for pick up at or Horizon Palace hotel (not fancy, affordable, and adequate for our stay.  Old building with heavy doors, dark wood stairs, no elevator… breakfast and view included off the 6th floor).  

The traffic / parking congestion is quite unbelievable this morning in this very old town … no place to park, not really paved roads, people in Tuk tuks, scooters, bicycles, cars, vans, trucks and tourist vehicles trying to turn around in very small spaces …. We watch in amazement.  

We are driven to Fumba … maybe 12 to 15 kms … allowing us to really see the way people live here … and drive!  Haha

Locally constructed sailing dhows await, fitted with large sailed, outboard motors, marine radios, life jackets, snorkeling equipment, fresh local fruits, soda pop and water keep cold on ice. 

The dhow is anchored and we have to step into the warm sea to board a little shuttle boat to then get on board the dhow.  It is an experience already!!

We are moving through the sea .. gorgeous light green turquoise color … we are provided quality snorkeling gear according to our size.  The skipper cuts the tops off fresh coconut and we all have our own, then chops up the coconut meat for tasting.  Yum. It’s a calm beautiful morning. The sun is hot and high, the breeze is warm and inviting.  

We are invited to jump overboard at the first anchor spot.  Striped fishes, remind me of early life experience with tropical fish in aquarium (zebra black and white, yellow fish … coral of a variety of shapes and textures, finger coral, Cauliflower and broccoli shaped also.  Starfish, urchins …. as if reaching up for us … wow!).  The water was so warm … I was in several times maybe up to two hours in full?  Maybe more.  

At least a half hour to swim around and float in this amazing first experience…. Then back on board and on to the next stop.  More snorkeling…. More floating …. Then a stop at the uninhabited sand bar beach.  It looked pretty big to me as we arrived.  Huge actually.  Lots of other dhow boats anchored and people walking and swimming.  

Then the tide continued to rise … the girls I was with, who were sitting on the beach, had to move up the sand hill as the water was reaching their toes and belongings.  I continued to float around in green clear glorious salty bliss.  When we sailed by the sandbar later in the day it was completely covered in sea … no evidence we had ever been there.  Fascinating.  

The guide advises no jellyfish, no sharks … he is right.  Safe beautifully clear warm water.  Wow. Light turquoise green as far as I can see.  

Another snorkel stop, the guide presented us with two starfish from the bottom and encouraged us to do more snorkeling.  We are anchored again, floating in this warm salty soup water.. everyone taking pictures and swimming in the coral and fish.

We can sail to the green lagoon now, the tide is high enough and rising fast.  Amazing sights, light green water, we can see the bottom.  Dark rugged rock topped with cactus and trees … the shapes are magical and like a fantasy place.

Our destination, more uninhabited island …. Headed for lunch!  We park, we are seated, we have fluffy white rice, vegetarian curry, lobster, shrimp, and other options … ha ha … you can tell which caught my attention!  There are bathroom facilities in a rustic kind of way … drummers and dancers with cultural music … walks along the sandy beach.  Vendors with local items for sale (local from Zanzibar), like a market with a few booths.  

After eating we walk to see the fallen, but still alive, 500 year old baobab tree and taste the fruit that grows from it.  People are invited to climb on the tree.  It’s pretty special!

Back to the dhow boats to begin our sail home.  Large sails are hoisted and the sea winds have picked up so we move along quickly.  Huge splashes over the sides, warm winds, people are tired and dozing.  It’s a beautiful sail back to the main island.  Due to very high tide we are unable to disembark at the same place … so we are anchored In a little cove.  Shuttled on motor boats and helped to walk through the shallow water to some rocky steps and climb out.  We walk a path and meet up with our driver from this morning.  It is about 5 pm when we return to the hotel.

It has been a big day!  We shower and start to relax, we need to pack up tonight and tomorrow fly off to Nairobi.

Good night wonderful loving family and friends …. Till the next post on this Africa adventure …. Stay well!  Wish you were here.

Hugs 

Pamela